There is something to be said for the first time in your life when you reach your hand across your chest, under your armpit, and around to the back of what might generously be called your shoulder, and in the process of scratching the skin there notice that your fingertips have glided down the back of something long, thick, pulsating, and slimy. That thing that one rallies to say (after the initial, “oh, ew“) is most certainly a four letter word, or, in my case earlier this afternoon, a long string of them. The problem with leeches, though, is that if you pull them off without salting or burning them, it 1) increases the chance of infection, 2) makes them shoot blood (your blood) all over your clothing, and perhaps the worst -3) it makes them elongate into the little pseudo-worms they are, as they desperately stretch and grip onto your skin, to keep siphoning away your life force. It’s really the most grotesque, fascinating, horrifying parasite I’ve ever interacted with.
Not that I’ve interacted with many, but still – we’re talking the paratrooper of the parasitic community – today’s leeches (which were longer than any I’ve seen before – about two inches long and skinny before they bite you – completely frickin’ disgusting and huge and swollen afterwards) were reaching out, dangling off the long leaves and plants we brushed past while laying out my research plots, like America’s ticks do, except it was as if the ticks had – I dunno – grappeling hooks. Long ones. Long ones they could reach up and out with, right in your direction, and use to claw onto your clothes, your skin – anything they might catch hold of. My first leech today bit me by climbing past my impassable socks-over-tightly-wrapped-pant-legs getup, and up to my knee, where the zipper of my pantsleg falls. I wear field pants with zip-off legs when in the field (as in, they become shorts as needed), albeit with the pant leg intact, and zipped firmly on. But the leech in question slimed his way right through the tiny space between the end of zipper threads and the fabric, and sure enough, when I unzipped the leg, there he was, tapping me like a keg.
This is the moment of your life when you call for the salt in Nepali (”NOON! NOOOOOOON!!!! NOOOO-OOOOOO-OOOOO-OOOONNN!”) like my cousin Jackie frantically would when she was twelve and given something green or healthy that she didn’t want to eat, and in fact would not ingest without heaps of the stuff, or like you would if slugs were escaping from your garden and eating your dog. “NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOON!!!!”
So you could say things have been busy. We’re 4 forests along, as of today, which translates into a totally mind-blowingly awesome 1/3 done with my sampling. This sounds much better than saying ” we still have eight forests to measure and I only have four weeks left in the whole country!” which could perhaps be called the reality of the situation, were I a “cup half full” kind of person. But this, I am not.
Tomorrow stands to be even better than today (which was pretty damn good, leeches excthe notable exception), as we’re headed to a forest called Puranapani, which is a wee seven hectares, or 70,000 square meters, and could potentially get wrapped up really, really quickly (as in, by tomorrow night!) Cross your fingers for me, and meditate on this number: 7. Because today my magic number was eight, and ta-dah! We’re there.
The reality of my day-to-day situation right now is actually kind of blase. I’m not doing much besides field science, and I’m doing much more work for that than is really comfortable for several days in a row/in any given day/in this country/during the monsoon/especially during a dry monsoon season. I’ve been revelling in the many moments of quiet reflection -or is it exhaustion? – that travelling to and from field sites inspires, however, and thought I’d share a few thoughts before another early, early bedtime.
And so, true to the blog’s title, here are a smattering of notes from the field.
-Field Assistants. They will never work “hard enough” for someone who works really, really, hard, and it turns out that “leading by example” (which I constantly seek to do with my little field team) is absolutely exhausting, if not impossible. Field crews will work hardest for leaders they respect and care personally about, in my experience, just like in any other job. What I realized (after being kind of bossy, unsympathetic, and too hard on just about everybody, myself included, the first week), was that I have to let them like me for who I am, and hope that they come to admire my devotion to field science, rather than loathe it. To do this well, I have to like them for who they are and how they do the work, first. For some reason that is unfair, and bogus, and very possibly entirely created by my overwhelming exhaustion, I found this hard last week. But right now we’re all growing on each other, and that’s some good stuff that just feels right (even if I do have to constantly remind them how to fix the corner plots, to measure every step, to measure precisely, where to do the dbh, not to stand in the regeneration plots…etc…)
I think this is particularly important when the field crew risks life and limb (or at least copious blood loss) to assist you, and you’re standing at the sidelines, telling them to re-measure the plot because it’s definitively-rhombozoidal, and not even remotely a square (as it should be). My esteem for my former boss Donie grows leaps and bounds by the day as I realize how hard she had to work to find decent field help, especially since she couldn’t interview potential hirees in person, from Alaska. There’s something to be said for seeing someone in person in order to decide whether their and your version of “work hard” are even slightly analagous, and it is hard, Hard, HARD to be boss, field mom, guide, instructor, data recorder, double-checker all at once. Add to that the necessity of being the person who leaves the field last and enters it first, to make sure nothing is left at day’s end, and to set the tone and tempo at its start, and you’ve got one exhausted woman on your hands.
-Also on field assistants. It occurred to me today that I might perhaps tell my fieldworkers that “I would never ask you to do anything that I wouldn’t do,” and I almost did, until I realized I’d have to follow on to it with, “but I’d do almost anything, so hey – your bad luck.” I thought this as I dangled off a 50 degree slope, pulling myself up around a tree trunk sticking out perpendicular to the hillside as if I were rock-clmbing at the Rock Gym in New Haven, legs dangling behind me as dragged my torso up another few meters of elevation fueled only by adrenaline (and perhaps a little fear). Hmm. Nevermind.
-Strong Men. I never thought I’d say this (ever!) but I miss them. I miss the type A personalities of dudes who work in forestry, I miss their capable, “oh I’ll get it” nature, their hand down to pull you up over the steep ledges, and the emotional anchor they provide to keep my lazy self working hard to keep up. I set the tone on this field crew (I am “the man”), and there’s not really anyone there to prop me up when I struggle…except me. I miss someone to lean on, and trust to catch the details. I particularly miss the many strong men in my own life, who are often emotional supports, and provide much-needed physical contact (I’m thinking hugs) when I’m struggling in my day-to-day life. I guess I need a strong man hug?
-Indelicate comparisons. My fieldworkers (and the various range post, or field-forest office staff) workers I have worked with (whom I have been running through like I have the plague, and it’s catching) have variously called me a “very hard worker,” “very strong,” and, my favorite, “someone who works like a soldier.” I almost always take it like a compliment, although I’m pretty sure in Nepal it’s as an insult. No Nepali I’ve met feels an overwhelming pull to to work particularly hard for long stints of time (like Americans do) – it’s just not in their life outlook. [Note to future field researchers working in Nepal: you will not be able to convert them, either. Trust me. You just won't.]
-Also in the arena of indelicate comparisons, my primary field assistant, Bina, has joined the bandwagon of people daily telling me I’m losing weight – not entirely shocking, considering I hike up and over 1,000 meters of elevation at least once, and usually twice per day – but took her turn in the form of “You have lost so much fat” late yesterday, as I stood at a public water pump giving myself a spongebath with my bandanna. “Well,” I thought, “I know Nepalis are small, but I don’t know that fat would be the word that I would have used to describe myself…” Insert bruised ego ::here::
Exhaustion. Is with me everyday. I wake up aching with it (at 5:45 am right now! Does anyone believe that?!) everyday, and curl up around it to sleep, hair wet and feet raised to decrease the aching every night. My thighs and leg muscles were in good shape to begin with, but I almost daily propel myself up the seemingly unending rock staircases that carve out the hillsides here by focusing on how it’s really just “exercise,” and how my legs have become, in essence, two large, condensed muscles. Everything else in my body is just kind of doing what it does, but from my hipbone to my ankles is pure strength – which is kind of cool. And exhausting.
With the exhaustion comes a lot of pain in my feet – we stand all day, and hike all day, and trip over rocks and cross streams all day, and the bottoms of my feet are killing me. I’m not really a foot person (as in, I basically just ignore that they’re there), but I’ve been trying everything – little scrubber brush, massage, body lotion – but they too are becoming rocks. And unseemingly rock-like. Definitely not lady-like…
…and neither are my legs, which are riddled with the little faux bullet holes of leech bites, which after the bite bleed profusely due to an astonishingly powerful anticoagulant they inject. It’s a little like opening a fire hydrant that taps into your blood stream, and when you salt a leech mid-engorgement (which, damn them all, I freaking love to do) they respond like aliens in a blockbuster summer movie, rearing their gnarly “heads” (tube endings) and shaking them back and forth violently, while spouting pirated human blood, until they curl up into a ball and die of dessication (can you hear my enthusiasm here?). That part is delightful, but the excessive bleeding that follows is tedious. Some of my leech bites have bled constantly for as much as four or five hours, going through multiple band-aids and gauze paths, and turning all my clothes/socks/trouser legs a brilliant blood red.
The wounds finally stop bleeding when the blood around them dries enough to prevent any more from escaping (i.e. not from coagulation), but they form what looks like an ugly mosquito bite that has been thoroughly scratched, and then pus everytime you succumb to scratching. Add about 20 clustered on the front of my legs (and as of today, two on my upper back, one on the back of my waistline, one inside my right knee…etc…) and you get the picture. Nasty.
Distractions. In my head, when I’m escaping from the leeches mentally, if not physically, I go to the beach in the US, where it is hot but not humid, and where there is water you can submerse yourself in. Although there’s lots of gorgeous water running across this part of Nepal (it’s part of what makes the trekking so aesthetically pleasing), the vast majority has run across farmland or through communities in its path to the country’s rivers and lakes, and is completely unsuitable for bathing or swimming. So I spend a lot of time staring in dismay at gorgeous, sparkling bodies of water, wanting to swim in it and holding back, almost salivating with the desire to jump in and be totally, wonderfully, wet. Hence the beach fantasies. And the lake fantasies. And the MODS fantasies. And the in-America-we-don’t-throw-our-garbage-in-the-water-and-I-can’t-tell-you-how-brilliant-it-was-that-someone-came-up-with-that-idea fantasies. Not a bad place to go, when you need to get away. And lordy I can’t wait to hit the beach in CT when I get back – somedays I map the trip from the airport to the beach in my head!
Food. I am on the craving trip of a lifetime. I want ice cream and chocolate, preferably together or one after another, ad nauseum. In fact I want ice cream in lieu of almost every meal (okay, every meal). I want FAT. I must be burning more than I’m picking up (despite the inescapable Asian rice belly I’m rocking these days), because I crave JUNK. Junk from all different countries, places, and cultures. Copious amounts of junk food. I notably don’t crave salty food – Nepali eateries offer a food they call “chow mein” which we in the US would call “Fried Ramen with vegetable shavings,” but I can’t bring myself to eat it. It even smells like it is bad for me. Chocolate and ice cream on the other hand – well let’s just say I wish it were more in vogue to be both a glutton and a food hoarder in Nepal.
I’ve started supplementing my diet with copious amounts of fruit, and on my last day off (the day of the solar eclipse, which became a national holiday here), I ate no fewer than three pomegranates, two mangoes, and a banana, all in less than about eight hours of wakefulness. These sugars seem to do the trick they way I need them to, but the effect is less long-lasting than, say, the little KitKat bars I discovered at the shop outside of the Ban Campus gates last week. On my day off, I should admit, I also ate something like three of those suckers, and then mourned the fact I couldn’t go buy more and properly pig out for, oh, the next three days.
For now, I’m going to leave it at that. There’s much more I wanted to say and many more creative ways to say it, but I am beat and late for bed (it’s after 10 pm! Yowza! My life is so exciting). I’ve got field clothes to put on my little clothesline, my water is filtered, and I might even have enough data sheets to make it through the morrow. Oh the excitement – I can hardly wait.
Tomorrow 8 turns into 7!
Namaste,
-M-