Category Archives: Research

Michael Jackson Tribute from my Alaskan Spiritual Home

Toolik Field Station in Alaska is like none other, and this proves it:

Although I do want to add that, contrary to what the good folks at the Nature blog said, as a founding member of the first EVER Toolik Dance Team (to our knowledge), Arctic Researchers are, in fact, known for our rhythm. As well as general, all-around bad-assedness.

Four years ago this summer a five woman international (thanks Kanchan) dance troupe wore lab coats dyed with permanent marker soaked in buckets of water, with Nepali written along the bottom, and black long underwear shirts on top to  perform a Bollywood dance in the Presentation Tent, with a whole lot of famous and fabulous scientists and field crew members watching. And we rocked it.

How’s THAT for rhythm, Nature?

Perspective

The title of this post was supposed to be “PUSH,” or else “The Only Way To It Is Through It,” two phrases (okay, one word and one phrase) which run through my head whenever I am frustrated that something is not turning out as I would like it to, and am reminding myself not to give up. Sometimes it takes a reminder (even if it’s from oneself) that when you push past the point of logic and through aggravation, the obstacle in your path eventually gives. I was going to tell you how frustrating my week has been, how behind I feel, and what exactly I should have been doing this week, as opposed to what I have been able to do.

And I was going to say that two days ago I was reminded to maintain my humility, compassion, and patience when a young friend here, whose best-friend won the “American citizenship” lottery and just headed off to the good ol’ US of A, bugged me all morning long by phone (seriously, five missed calls!) to come meet him in the shopping district called Mahendrapul with his friend on that person’s last day. I eventually did, mentally grumbling, face in a bit of a pout, annoyed at myself that I had committed to going there, little black cartoon cloud amassing above my head. “I should be doing work,” I kept thinking, even though that wasn’t going well at all, and I probably really needed the break.

Well, I got there and the boys – and they really are boys – both 22, very close friends, cute and sweet and full of optimism about the world and getting a leg up on the competition by going to the US to work, had two plates, one inverted on top of the other, that they wanted me to smell. Something was sealed inside, and grumpy though I was, I tried to smell but couldn’t, so didn’t wager a guess at what the mystery plates held. I should premise this by saying that I’ve been giving Bishwa’s friend (whose name right now escapes me) pretty regular advice on the US, New York City, where to fly into, who to fly with, where to go, etc, and that the night before he and Bishwa had peppered me with questions about American girls and bars, and whether I would help them get an American girlfriend. I told Bishwa’s friend that if he walked into a New York City bar and announced that he is 23 and has never kissed a girl…things would take care of themselves. Like I said. Cute. Kids.

One of the things I told the friend about was food, especially since I always miss it when I travel, and so of course if you know me at all, you know I told him about pizza. I told him where to get it, how big it is, how cheap it is (in rupees), and that it’s like, “the momo of America,” momos being a dumpling-like snack that is incredibly popular here. We had in fact already ordered momos when the mystery plate was displayed before me, the two boys grinning with pride and maybe a modicum of sheepish excitement. And so what had they ordered and were excitedly waiting on me for was, of course, a pizza.

A little, round, less-good-than-Elios-which-isn’t-actually-pizza-anyway Nepali take on the pizza pie, as a sign of thanks, perhaps, and affection for me and my crazy American talk, surely. When I realized that was the source of the excitement, and the five missed phone calls, and the great big grin on this kid’s face who is about to head off into the great and intimidating west to kiss girls and make his first million (rupees, most likely)…I was humbled. And it put a lot of things in perspective, including why the way you treat people matters, and why you should come through on what you’ve promised to do, and why you can’t afford to be the cranky bideshi just because you’re overtired, or overstressed, or both. It was a nice moment.

The situation I was facing with my research refused to resolve itself, or to let me do the resolving, however, and once again I found myself incredibly aggravated over the last three days, as I attempted to make sense of a morass of information in both Nepali and English that absolutely had to be factored into the decisions I’m making about how to do my research. And I felt like a failure, and like a procrastinator (although I actually don’t think this was a factor, this time), and like I was going to disappoint a lot of people who think I can do these crazy things I stride off to do, like sampling in Nepal’s forests. I wondered a lot this week whether I am doomed to failure at creating change in the world, or at moving ahead in my career, and worried that my failure rate had increased dramatically this year (between the whole GMAT, School of Management rejection thing, et al). Suffice to say, I was miring in it.

Things turned around a little bit today, though, and I am feeling mildly optimistic. The internet even came back, after a three day outage, and so as I sat here, procrastinating the blog post, a little fried from the heat, I signed onto le Facebook and promptly found out that my good friend Mike from Yale literally fell off of the face of a mountain in Colorado this week. At 12,500 feet, smacking a large rock outcropping on the way down…possibly in front of his brother. Nine hours later he was pulled off the mountain by a rescue crew, with “only” a shattered vertebra, broken ankle, second sprained ankle, and hypothermia.

There sort of aren’t words for when you get this kind of news. The one thing I can easily say without letting the tears fall is that this is the kind of news that is a frequent traveler’s worst nightmare – to not be there when something really, really bad happens, and not be able to help when someone you really care about might need you. Luckily, the news of his fall came from Mike himself (trusty Facebook comes through again), and he is relatively okay, according to what he has posted. He will need rehabilitation and a bunch of other care, but most importantly, he’s alive, and there was no brain trauma. You can see the YouTube recovery video yourself – I can’t get the sucker to load for the life of me: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nGTTzSHMak.

I don’t really know what to say next. Mike is my closest friend at Yale, the one I spend the most time with, and the first person with whom the connection was pretty much immediate. We think the same way, we like the same kinds of things, and the same stupid shit associated with an Ivy League school pisses us off. I’m a little more optimistic and “glass half full,” he’s a little more pretty freakin’ smart, and 100% totally bad ass, while also being super-duper kind and considerate. Mike is in a different program and doing a PhD instead of a Master’s, but we met on a fluke in November and have been comparing notes on the world ever since. Even though I know he’s not in Connecticut right now and am sure he is in good hands, I have an overwhelming and embarrassingly maternalistic urge to be at least on the same continent right now, and to show up and just – I don’t know – dote. My perspective on the moment is permanently changed, and more than anything, I am just so, so, SO glad he is okay!

What I thought was the last time I would see him before Nepal we got a big, warm pizza pie to go (since I was was rice-averse, anticipating the rest of the summer and the alternative was Indian food), a bottle of wine and some beers, and two delicious little cups of gelato and sat out on his front stoop across from the big park near the Farmer’s Market at twilight, eating pizza, watching people go by, and talking about life, and how much he was looking forward to this trip that he was on when he fell. I cannot even fathom the state I would have been in right now had that really awesome farewell dinner been one of the last times I saw him. I would be in pieces.

I ended up seeing Mike two more times, though, both on the last day I was in New Haven. I saw him first when he came to get me to take me to the train station at around noon, and I was not even remotely ready to go, so we ate lunch (my leftovers) instead. I then saw him once again, when he came back from his lab once more to take my laggard ass to the train, good-naturedly putting my and Julie’s stuff and selves into his car while we ran around like a bunch of crazy ladies. On that attempt we rushed to the train station, Mike pulling all kinds of crazy moves to get through a traffic light (which I found secretly exhilarating), and then shortly thereafter offered to take even more time from his priorities to go have a beer with me somewhere nearby after we watched the train pull out of the station from the car, and realized we had another hour to wait. Julie and I decided to err on the side of caution and wait on the train platform, but that last day and week was riddled with Mike’s kindnesses, and I remember distinctly turning to Julie when we were at long last waiting on the train platform, and saying something to the effect of how blessed I feel to have such amazing people in my life, and so many good friends.

This isn’t a eulogy (and thank you god for that), but I wanted to take a moment to share how truly awesome this person is, and how lucky I am to have him in my life. I’m so, so glad that he will be okay, and that I know there will be more nights of gelato and pizza to come.

Get well soon, Mike. My thoughts are with you.

-M-

A Quick Update in the Vernacular

Whew.

With that, I am at long last up-to-date, and you (faithful readers) are brought into the present tense. I’ve omitted a few posts for dicey content (sorry) that is fine for America but poorly suited for Nepali propriety, in case my friends here ever read this, and one or two for general grumpiness (you don’t want to hear me being grumpy – really).

I’m in Lakeside, at the moment, utilizing internet at a cafe because Ban Campus’ internet is down – the rains have come, and with them all the little inconveniences such a deluge implies. So far, however, no leeches. I give thanks for little things.

My research is behind, for a long series of reasons, and I will in short order decrease the number and length of posts drastically in order to focus more closely on being in the field. I plan to do four, six-day weeks of intense works, coming down from the communities on Friday nights through Sunday mornings only to wash clothes, upload data, sleep in front of a fan in “my own bed,” and update this blog. I hope you’ll bear with me during this slight change in the programming.

To my immense pleasure and surprise, this blog is moving along nicely. The posts are too long but I am loathe to spare the details. Could you understand the gracefulness and beauty of a sari if I excluded the bit about the golden thread? Would you have empathized as the bride cried while Sudarshan applied the tikka if I didn’t explain the implications? How do I tell you why I study trees in fewer than 500 words? These are the challenges. I promise to keep working on them, though, and to be more diligent about doing so.

To date I have written 87 pages of blog posts in a Word document, approximately 80 pages of which have been posted. So no hard feelings if you are not caught up. I read each post three times before it goes up, so – so believe me, I feel ya. I’ve never written so much in my life, and feel like I’m tapping into something that has been waiting a long, long, time to find its way out.

Finally, my thanks to all for the responses to the “Not Quite Pocket Change” post. I received many thoughtful and lengthy responses, mostly by email, which warmed my heart for the generous spirit and informed manner in which my quandary was considered. I still don’t know the answer or what I will do, but I will continue to mull it over. A friend has suggested I wait until the end of the summer and just before my departure before taking any action, so that I not become pressed for more financial support and distracted from my true objective here. I think this is wide counsel, and will heed it. So you have some time if you’re still thinking it over yourselves, but still want to comment.

I apologize for including the bit about starting my own non-profit. I meant to keep that up a sleeve and not disclose it in so public a way, but 750 mL of beer and a lot of soul-searching later, out it came. I will deal with that more later – both the idea and my fear and excitement about it. We’ll see what comes.

But for now what must come (at long, friggin’, aggravation and anxiety-ridden last) is my research. It’s time to head into the field, and I am dying to go. I anticipate leeches, amazing conversations with community members, sweaty days, rinsing off in my clothes at the public water spouts in the evening, mice in my hair and probably biting at my fingertips as I sleep. Lots of humid bus rides, all kinds of adventure. Frustration – especially due to leeches, rain, and the steep slope of the mountains. Fun, working with Nepali students here in the field, on my own project. Undue amounts of anxiety and worry over whether I am doing it right, whether my question is actually any good, whether my data will show what I hope does. All lies ahead.

And with that, I’m back to the grindstone.

Namaste and a Happy 4th of July to All,

-M-