Category Archives: Travel

The Not-So-Short Version of the Long Story of How I Found Myself in Nepal

*[Editor's Note: Remember that bit about not being succinct? I've broken this part into two sections, with the first part below, so read that first. I'm still figuring out how to order posts, so bear with me if things move around a bit. And I promise no post will ever again be as long as these two! -M-]

What I realized while sitting alongside my little stream, on the day in early April when I backpacked alone, was that I like thinking about how people related to the natural world, and specifically to the resources that we all depend on, and value aesthetically. I am partial to forests, myself, and am also very interested (particularly these days) in issues of access to clean drinking water and sanitation, and so for me it was clear that I was headed towards trees, and water.

Trees were perhaps my first love in the outdoors, from the cherry blossom tree that was planted in our front lawn at the time of my birth, which I’d grown up climbing, all the way through to summers spent wandering in the woods near upstate NY where my grandmother kept a cottage, with my Peterson’s Field Guide to Medicinal Plants in hand. I would study forests, forest management, and the way they relate to water (to be very simplistic, intact and generally undisturbed forests help to clean and purify water more effectively than disturbed or poorly managed ones do), and I would use the opportunity of returning to graduate school to do research on forests in another country, both so I could have intimacy with and expertise in a specific place, and so that I could leverage that technical scientific background to obtain a better, more influential, position in the international environmental non-governmental organization (ENGO) world I’d begun to claim as my own.

I knew that forest management research would be satisfying, and enjoyable to me, and that publishing the results of my research (which is required for the FES Master of Environmental Science degree, which I am pursuing) would be of great benefit to me as a professional. I knew that the international element would prove to be important personally and professionally, but decided before beginning school that I was reluctant to return to Latin America and so would look elsewhere, even though it was the most obvious destination for someone with a Latin American Studies minor, who speaks fluent Spanish, and who lived in Ecuador and Peru during study abroad to do her research. But I was afraid I would compartmentalize myself as a Latin American specialist, rather than being well-positioned for a Staff Scientist role or, more ideally, an Associate Director of Scientific Programs type of position at an ENGO, and so decided I would instead do my research in either Asia or Africa.

When I was not selected by my first choice of academic advisors and was placed instead with a faculty member who focused on Nepal, Bhutan, and Thailand, I felt that the decision had serendipitously been made for me – I would go to Asia. Nepal and Bhutan were both on my short list of countries I was interested in doing research in (as were South Africa, Argentina, Kenya, and China), and to have a professor who specialized in this area of the world seemed the easiest route to making such a huge transition in geographic specialization in a well-supported way. I knew I would learn whatever language was spoken in the country I visited (I think this is very, very important, and will touch on it again in later posts), and that I would need to work that much harder if I was to be ready for an international field season relatively “by myself,” in a country I had never been to before, which I didn’t even decide on until the first week of October, a scant seven months before I’d leave for the field.

In the end, I settled happily on Nepal and learning Nepali, as I thought that the community forestry system in Nepal, where local community members who depend on the forest for their livelihood are put in the position to manage the forest as a committee, was fascinating, and I thought the lessons that could be derived from research there were more widely applicable than those in Bhutan. Bhutan limits tourism by a very savvy practice of charging an astronomical daily rate for tourism, and as such has a steady flow of income and less evident impact of external interference (as in, cultural pollution from other more developed countries as a byproduct of globalization and tourism), than Nepal does. It would be less expensive to do research in Nepal, and there was a strong community of Nepali students at FES who I was getting to know, and who I knew would help me to prepare for a summer in their home country.

So I decided on Nepal, and committed myself to it with determination. I read everything I could find, checked out every book that had Nepal and forest in its keywords across four or five different Yale libraries, and enrolled in Yale’s Directed Independent Language Studies program, to be paired with a Nepali student as a language partner for the spring semester, that I might begin to acquire language skills. I aggressively pursued and eventually was awarded the funds to travel to Nepal on a prep trip for three weeks over my spring break, and used the time to network with professors, make arrangements for my accommodations, and take a two-week long Nepali language intensive. I short, I did everything I could reasonably (and sometimes unreasonably) fit into a busy graduate student’s schedule, in order to be ready for this experience.

And so that, at long last, is how I came to be here. I’m studying community forestry because natural resource management by the people who depend on the resource appeals to my values, my politics, and my person, and because the kinds of questions you can ask about how such participation in management has impacted the participant’s perception of their world, and their role in it, are amazing. I love the idea of going into the villages and talking about trees and plants, and how they’re used, with community members, and I love that in research we have this unique opportunity to share knowledge in both directions – to learn from the community members instead of expecting them to just learn from us. I came here in part because I wanted to experiment a little with personal philosophies about international collaboration and field research in less-developed countries, as well, and will delve into that more in a later post. But I value about Nepal that on the subject of community forestry, the Nepali PhDs and professors are by and large the world’s experts, and I like how putting myself into the position of a learner in this country subverts the dominant development model oh-so-slightly.

Traditionally, the US and other developed nations have participated (and at times, intruded) actively in the development of countries like Nepal through USAID and other organizations, sometimes with mixed results. This has absolutely been the case with forest management, and it is interesting to see how now we have learned to step back just a bit, and see what is happening in the place we seek to help before we go in there and “help” them right into a dramatically degraded forest (this actually did happen). I think we have learned that we can no more institutionalize development abroad than we can “decide” to build democracies  – what we must do instead is support the work of the people in the countries where the work must happen, asking them what they need, and what they want, in terms of skills, ideas, and resources, rather than telling them what to do and how to do it, or that they must do it as we have. I cherish the way agency is daily restored to Nepal and Nepalis, and community forestry is a terrific model system through which to explore that transition.

There are many examples of how this has happened and how it has, at different times, succeeded and failed, but this blog post (or these two!) grow a little long in the tooth, so I’ll leave it at that, for the moment. Suffice to say that my coming to both Yale and Nepal was as much about a long, serendipitous sequence of events as it was about me knowing myself, and what I needed at the time when I was making the decision. It reminds me of that chorus of the song that always sticks in my head, about how “you can’t always get what you want, but if you try sometimes, you just might find, you get what you need.”

-M-

“And Now, for My Second Act, I Will Brush My Teeth”

Last night I dreamt that I was having people over, and the doorbell kept ringing. Every time I went to spend time with the guests who had already arrived, the doorbell would ring insistently and I’d reluctantly tear myself away from a newly started conversation in order to somewhat peevishly go let another guest in.

When I woke this morning in the sterile beach resort that is the ‘Transit Room” of the Indira Ghandi International airport in Delhi, I realized I had been the crazy American girl down the row, ensconced in a carefully embezzled ‘Jet Airways’ blanket from my last flight, curled up on the uber-modernist designed metal and black foam lounge chairs, chattering to myself (and my guests) in my sleep. I was spending the evening in the holding pen where cheapskates like myself, who would rather have a cheap ticket than a good night’s sleep (or a direct flight) come to pass as many as fifteen hours sprawled out on a long, single row of industrial-style lounge chairs that run the length of a single, glassed-in room, lit brightly as a tanning bed by the combination of overhead lights, gleaming white tiles, and spotless glass (which I’d spent my last trip here watching get cleaned…for eight hours).

The lay of the lounge (to give it more credit than it is due) gives one the feeling of being amidst a long line of lounge chairs at the beach, but with the beach in a tanning bed…in an airport…in India. Looking through the glass once in place on the chairs one sees one of the many central hallways of the airport, complete with young Indian professionals walking briskly past on their way to something more important than a motley crew of white bideshi (foreigners, in Nepali) curled into crazy pretzels and wearing whatever they brought in their carry-ons (Mickey Mouse beach towels, dressy women’s scarves, several different pieces of clothing wrapped around different segments of torso, and most comically, their heads…) to try to stay warm, make it dark enough to sleep, and generally just wile away the hours. The cumulative effect is of being on a highly sterile beach, on an industrial-quality lounge chair, looking homeless, feeling desperate, and being a zoo exhibit for those Indians bored enough to glance inside and laugh at the spectacle.

For a $1,145 roundtrip ticket to Nepal, however, worse things could happen.

After glancing around this morning to make sure no one had been too perturbed by my irrational, increasingly annoyed sounding babble to the guests who just wouldn’t stop ringing my doorbell (which, as it turned out, was actually the little bell that chimes before an announcement over the public address system, which goes off constantly!), I took to the bathroom to get washed up and brush my teeth before my final flight segment, a one-and-a-half hour jaunt over the border and into Nepal. I was and remain oblivious to the time of day, as it is dark outside and my watch is still on New Haven time. I do know for certain, however, that it is 7:38pm Tuesday, May 26th, on the US east coast.

Now, about this bathroom. I have fond memories of this bathroom because on my first trip to Nepal, in March, I stumbled into this bathroom late one night, drunk with jetlag and eyelids sticky with contacts left in too long, and was pleasantly surprised how nice it was. Literally, with a chaise lounge or two, it could be the bathroom for a three or four star hotel in New York City. Well-lit, with elegant marble, clean surfaces, and an attendant (I always feel bad for attendants – imagine if your job was to listen to women poop all day, without any natural light?), it was pretty glam for the Indira Ghandi, I thought. Pleased by the overall appearance but focused on the task at hand, I, in my pseudo-intoxicated state, staggered into a stall, shut the door around my large and ungainly backpack, and was appalled to find, to my great shock, nothing but a little hole in the ground. I grin now just recalling how utterly floored I was, and wish there had been a video camera handy to capture the look on my face. The fanciness of the bathroom had prevented me from anticipating anything other than a western-style toilet, and in my groggy surprise I tripped backwards over myself, out of the stall, and stood by the sinks, contemplating my next move. It was only then that I realized the stall doors had little silhouette diagrams on them, indicating the type of commode inside.

So today I made a beeline for the “toilet” stall, did my thing, and stepped outside to change from glasses into contacts before the final flight. The attendant stood by watching with the kind of death-by-boredom that I associate with calculus class until I took out my lens case, and began fishing around with carefully cleaned fingers for my left lens. Suddenly, she was riveted. This lovely young woman, probably about twenty, stood not a foot and a half from my arm, silenced by the language barrier we had failed to overcome when I said hello, and stared in absolute rapture. I’m taking mouth open, eyes wide and shining with interest, not moving. Maybe not even breathing – I’m not totally sure.

All of which, of course, made it that much easier for me to put my contacts in. Nothing like a crowd to get lens-weary eyes to accept sticky little spheres of barely-breathable plastic. After five minutes of trying and a second dip in the lens solution, I did eventually succeed in inserting the source of my vision, and looked over through saline-rimmed eyes in a moment of triumph – although to my slight surprise and disappointment, my audience didn’t clap. I think she contemplated it, though.

As I moved on to brush my teeth, glancing nervously over and smiling through a mouth of foamy white wintergreen flavoring, she kept on staring, until she realized I had no analogously bizarre apparatus to apply to my mouth, and two other Indian women walked in. But it’s the moments like these that make travel so fun, and so interesting, and these that I relish most.

-M-

The Way We Do the Things We Do

I thought it was pretty likely my plane out of JFK was going to crash, if only for the opportunity to disrupt the perfect performance that was Monday, the day I left the US. I packed until the very wee hours of the morning, accompanied in my low-voiced monologue (“this goes here, and oh! I can…oh yes, that will fit…hells yeah I packed that shit”) only by birdsong, which grew louder and louder as I myself grew increasingly desperate to zip my bags and be done with the thing. I finished at 4 am on the minute, but woke Monday (at 8 am) with a sense of accomplishment at knowing that almost everything I needed was sealed in two not-even-remotely-professional-looking bags (my new internal frame Osprey hiking backpack, and my large soccer duffle bag from the days of Shooting Stars), which were zippered securely shut, clad with soft, smushable items around their exterior walls and not even lumpy. There should be an award for packing that well.

I spent Monday morning jetting around 17 North in New Jersey, buying up last minute items that should never have been left for last minute, and wincing every time my Gold credit card – which I refer to simply as the “big card” for the size of the trouble I could get into for using it too much – was pulled through the payment machine. All in all I hit Home Depot (they sell flagging! And flags!), Kmart (just as horribly sketch-tastic as it used to be, but …I was desperate), and a few other smaller stores to pick up odds, ends, and incredibly-important-things-I-should-have-ordered-from-Forestry-Suppliers-WEEKSAGO. To keep from being too hard on myself or getting tired early I played 92.3 (KROC) as loudly as I could stand, making it through not one, not two, not three, but five iterations apiece of Kelly Clarkson’s “My Life Would Suck Without U” and Pink’s “Sober” before I had to put on the classic rock station and lay off the teeny-bop. Playing KROC while driving in New Jersey always sends me straight back to the balmy summer nights of high school, when I would fly down routes 17 or 4 on my way to Jose, Cormac, and Pat, or Cristi and Tia, rocking out and singing along to whatever new middling rock band was dominating the airwaves at the moment. Those few years in New Jersey were the only ones in which I drove with regularity, as I have not owned a car since a short, nine month stint in senior year. So driving, for me, is mostly a set of very specific memories, rather than a daily part of my life.

But back to perfection. I set my goal to return to the house by noon for the inevitable re-packing and forgetting of various items, and returned by 11:45. This never happens. Like, not-in-this-lifetime, never. But by noon I was back at my computer, finishing up some emails, googling some of the stuff I had just bought to make sure I wanted to keep it before I opened it ::cough:: expensive-Garmin-GPS-device-and-fancy-schmancy-high-end compass-I-don’t-know-how-to-use ::cough::. I had lunch with my parents, actually speaking to them instead of sitting at our dining room table working, or doing my best to avoid our screamingly loud TV while I finish my work (do people ever not get attacked by snakes and vampires on TV? Someone is always dying! And they have to die so loudly! And so often!), which is what I’ve done since arriving home Friday. But we had a quasi-leisurely lunch, and I returned to doing work before Jose came for some coffee and chatter, and to help me pound the last few items into my bag by sheer force and innovation (hello, duct tape!). It was lovely, actually, and by 2:24pm (with 2:30pm my target departure time), the car was loaded, the photos were taken, and I and my copious amount of gear and plain old shit (plus both 5lb forest ecology textbooks! Oh yes, oh yes I did bring them!) were on their way to JFK, and by extension, Nepal.

I arrived at the airport right on time (was aiming for 4pm, arrived a few minutes before), moved effortlessly through checking my bags and security despite the fact that my hiking backpack is three kilos of last-minute-flagging over the weight limit, and found myself sitting idly at the gate almost an hour before my flight, feeling, well…nothing.

Although it seems like a bad thing not to feel anything after something I’d worked so hard for, it was in fact my reward. I’d traveled to Nepal over spring break so I could sit here now and feel nothing – no fear, no hesitation, no worry over where I would sleep next, whether my hosts would find me likable, whether the food would make me sick. Instead I rested complacently, blankly staring out the window at the gorgeous early summer day, content in the fact that I was about to board a plane to spend three months abroad, doing many things I’ve never done before (and undoubtedly failing at some of them), living amongst what was before March a completely foreign culture, eating a metric ton of rice (I may actually calculate how much I end up eating by summer’s end…and I bet it’s more than one metric ton), and speaking in (flawed) Nepali. The contentment and the nothingness, then, were in their own way, beautiful.

I do want to say here that I did not achieve all that I should have, or finalize everything I ought to have, before I left. My methodology is wobbly and I keep changing my mind about how to go about it, so have done a poor job of putting it on paper (which would enable others to help me strengthen it…but…) I didn’t maintain good contact with the Nepali faculty between my trips to Nepal, so spent the last two weeks rapid-fire emailing kindly Nepali faculty members with limited access to email or power, to confirm that upon my arrival in Pokhara logistics would be arranged as we had discussed. In perhaps my stupidest, most ass-backwards oversight of all, I procrastinated, and avoided, buying the appropriate already-budgeted-for gear from Forestry Suppliers that I need for my summer in enough time for them to mail them to me, and so was left scrambling for substitutes at the very last minute. My execution of this process, despite hours of rehearsing it and thinking through my actions and to-do list, has been incredibly flawed, and without good reason. I’ve never procrastinated so much in my life, and have done so of late when I should have been working on some really important things that I know matter to me. So one of the things I hope to have come out in the wash this summer is that procrastination, and ascertaining why I do it.

But in the meantime, there I sat, waiting for my flight, and ready to go. I felt ready, and that was really the point. I had given myself a lot to think about on the long flight through Belgium, Delhi, and finally to Nepal, but in that moment, with the things I needed packed, my bags checked, and perhaps most importantly my head in the right place, I was willing to accept that maybe right now this is just the way I do the things I do.

-M-