Whew. Where to start? It has been one hell of a week, to be sure. The last 9 days have been almost completely filled by all-day stretches of forest sampling, bookended by rushed laundering of my field clothes (which right this moment are soaking away some of the grime in a bucket in my bathroom), charging of batteries, a lengthy shower, and at least 8 hours per night of sleep. Add to that the 19 leeches, two troops of monkeys, one give-or-take six-foot-long snake, approximately six vertical falls down hillsides (or off of slick, well-traveled pathways), and 5,200 square meters of government-protected forest sampled and yeah…you could say it has been a busy week.
First, the gist. This week we planned on hammering out six of the twelve forests I sought to sample, as all six are ten hectares or less in size, and therefore considered “very small,” even for a community-managed forest. A hectare is 10,000 square meters, which sounds like a very odd amount of land for any society to delineate, until you realize it is 100 meters on a side. So when I say I sampled ‘x’ number of hectares, what I really mean is I sampled a 100 by 100 meter square, that many times over.
At the beginning of the week, however, a series of small things went wrong which maligned all my carefully made plans, and sent us to Rani Ban instead. Ran Ban is the largest forest I planned to sample, a government-managed chunk of forest near several key pieces of Nepali infrastructure (the massive dam that Pokhara depends on for electricity, in part, and the former king’s holiday retreat, just to name two), and has been “protected” by the government for quite some time. I say “protected” not to belittle the efforts of the Nepali government, but to emphasize for you the size of this forest, and the sheer scale of the operation that would be required to truly protect such a gigantic piece of forested land in a country where so many people desperately need the resources forests provide. Rani Ban (Ban means ‘forest’ in Nepali) is a 210 hectare forest, which means 2,100,000 square meters. It covers most of a medium-sized “hill,” this being the Middle Hills region, but keep in mind that I’m climbing around in the trees at somewhere between 800-1,000 meters of elevation – not quite a hill for the average east coaster of an American…
To put it in perspective, when I hit 1,000 meters of elevation on my GPS earlier this afternoon, I was only a couple hundred feet shy of the elevation of the biggest mountains in the Catskill mountains of New York, the thirty-five 35ers (or 3,500 footers), where I somewhat regularly hike. So I effectively spent the last five days in particular climbing up, over, and down the flanks of a mountain the size that you’d find in the Catskills – and then repeating the process over and over again 400 meters along the way as I began each transect, which start at the base of the hillside. It was hard, hard work.
Although we had decided to save the biggest forests for last, we shifted our focus to Rani Ban this week when a series of glitches involving weather and staffing (of my field crew) prevented us from working in first one, then another of the community forests we had already visited, and I fell back on Rani Ban (which is extremely accessible from Ban Campus, although only relative to the accessibility of the other forests) by default.
It turned out to be a blessing in disguise. To take an adequate sample from Rani Ban we had to do a tremendous amount of sampling (we have at least 52 10 x 10 meter plots sampled, with 4 1×1 subplots, and 1 5×5 subplot per each overall plot), which gave us the opportunity to hone our technique and approach, while taking statistical refuge in the safety of numbers. What I mean by this is that by letting our roughest plots (our first few) happen in a big forest, we probably hedge our bets that any errors in sampling would come out in the wash (the wash being basic statistical analysis of so many data points). Although we tried very hard not to make any errors from the time we began work in Rani Ban, they are almost inevitable at the beginning of any field sampling, and could include reading a diameter tape at the wrong place, creating a plot not quite 10 x 10 meters, incorrectly or inconsistently identifying plants, or estimating tree height. We carry a myriad of tools with us to avoid these kinds of errors, but – mistakes happen – all you can do is do your best, put forth a good faith effort, and in the words of a wise field ecologist “sample till your feet hurt.”
Which, in fact, is exactly what we did.
I’ll get more into the sampling process, and some of the nuance and questions I’m seeking to evaluate (as well as newly developed obstacles to some of the answers) in a blog post tomorrow, when I’ve gotten some decent sleep, but here are the lows, the highs, and the “meh: I can do betters” of this last week of fieldwork.
Lows:
1. Being stymied by logistics. I was stunned by the amount of entreating, cajoling, organizing, and arranging it took to get to my field sites, and to get the requisite field crew there with me at an early enough time in the morning to make a serious dent in the plotwork. Between spotty buses, a field assistant oversleeping, me forgetting to photocopy the datasheets one morning (::cough:: this morning ::cough::), taking the bus in the wrong direction, the Range Post Office’s Forest Guard “volunteer” changing every.single.day, and the timing of the Nepali meal schedule (10am? WTF?), it was damn hard to get two solid chunks of time per day to hammer out some fieldwork. And oh did I learn a whole helluva lot about entreating, cajoling, and double-checking bus destinations in the progress….
2. The first two days. We started in the field a week ago this past Thursday, and the first two days I was miserable. Miserable for a couple of reasons, all of which I very intimately understand, but they were bad enough that I pulled the plug for a day last weekend, to mull things over and make changes in my process. I even wrote a blogpost after my pull the plug day, in which I talked a lot about how maybe this wasn’t the field for me after all, and how perhaps I had outgrown my desire to do fieldwork, or to sample anything. That has since changed, but I was coming down really hard on my abilities as a manager/employer, as my sampling protocols felt really out of control in the hands of my first two field assistants, and I felt extremely isolated being the only one of three people spending the whole day together in the forest but not speaking Nepali fluently.
3. Cultural differences in understandings of the following: “work,” “workday,” “hard work,” “good data,” and “work late.” This is not a knock against Nepalis – there are legitimate, important differences between the conceptualization of these terms between our two countries, and in short order I realized all the good reasons why I couldn’t just steamroll through and organize my dad as if I were working in American. I don’t have a great resolution at hand, at the moment, but I’m working on it.
Highs:
1. I feel sheepish saying this, but let’s be honest – it was the monkeys. Yesterday at around 1,000 meters of elevation I was leading the group up a sheer hillside in order to set the next plot up before they got there, and as I bushwacked upslope through the underbrush, following a bearing on my compass, I realized a troop of Rhesus monkeys was passing overhead. As I watched they actually descended from the treetops quite a bit to scope me out, and then to my utter amazement actually descended all the way to the forest floor(!), where they proceeded to walk the trails about 20 meters ahead of me for a short while. Only a few did this that I could see, but when they did it absolutely took the forward motion right out of me.
I have seen monkeys and baboons in several countries, but there was something truly tremendous about seeing them descend down to the forest floor, and my own plane of existence. It spooked me a little bit, to tell the truth, and it was breath-taking to see them walking along the path on all fours. It was reminiscent of the large, tawny-haired cat I saw around this time last year, in Costa Rica, if only for the way the muscle rippled below the fur, as it prowled along through this particular stretch of protected forest. Other troop members descended to low branches and simply hung out there for awhile, mouths agape, trying to discern exactly what it was we were up to in their forest. And I myself returned their gaze in full – eyes wide, mouth agape. Monkeys!
2. Finishing a forest! It felt so good to know we were done today, and to think of the (piles of) data I now have at my fingertips, both to enter into my laptop and to sort through (ahem: plants in bags). Halfway through the week I found out that Rani Ban has never before been inventoried, so this is the first ever description of the forest resources available to be harvest, managed, preserved or protected. I thought that was pretty cool, and am glad that the data I gathered will provide a baseline for reference by the Nepali people who manage it in the years to come. A few of the forest guards were equally jazzed to see the outcome of my data, and to read the report I draft up. My research is on forest management instead of forest ecology (although to be truthful, I’m measuring forest ecology as an indicator of the effect of different types of forest management) because I wanted to do something applied for my project, and create information and knowledge that would benefit people in the country in which I work, beyond myself. So check that one off the list!
3. Seeing the forest users in action. A few days ago we saw an old woman, bent low with the weight of the huge basket of freshly cut “dead” branches hung off her forehead and lengthwise down her back, and with her permission, I took her picture. These are not “bad people” who are using this protected forest illicitly – rather, they are members of adjacent communities whose survival is inextricably linked to the products they can pull out of the local forest system, but who in some cases they are using the forest unsustainably, taking out more than the forest can replace or give back. Helping women like the one we saw continue to rely on the forest while not irreparably damaging it is one of the central tenets of community forest management, and is also the motivation for my field project.
Yesterday in the forest we saw two different old women illegally harvesting timber and non-timber forest products (an example of the latter would be firewood, lokta, a plant used for paper, or mushrooms), and although we were in the company of the forest guard, he did not arrest them. He called out to them in an emphatic manner, told them to stop removing material from the forest, and be on their way, but he did not intervene, or even look closely to see what they’d taken. As it turns out, I learned later, he does not have the authority to arrest the women, or to fine them. The only authority vested in him, as one of the main patrolers in the forest, is that of bringing the women in to the Range Post (sort of the equivalent of a remote field office for the Forest Service), where the Range Post Officer could fine them, should he so desire.
But put yourself in his shoes for a second here – you are approximately 2,000 meters (2K!) away from your range post office, and it’s a sweltering hot, buggy day, with leeches, biting ants, and mosquitoes rampant. Your options are traveling back to the range post, dragging along an unwilling, loudly complaining and potentially physically aggressive little old lady just trying to get some firewood to cook dhal bhaat for her family, along several hundred meters of elevation, through dense forest, or else simply calling her out through the trees, but leaving her be to decide what she’ll do next. Do you haul her in?
Yeah, me neither. So is there protection to be had in this protected forest? Only the data will tell. But it’s some crazy tasty food for thought, we’ve just stumbled across here…
4. Looking at the map on my GPS unit tonight, and seeing four mostly straight little flag-riddled transects crisscrossing their way across my Nepal map. We did that!
5. Hitting my stride. After those first two shitty days and my personal day of reckoning, I kicked ass. Okay maybe not quite, but I worked hard, I moved fast(ish), I climbed high and I took the goddamned data until it was done. Day Three I woke up ready, and remembered how this works: you put your life, and everything in it, on autopilot (or perhaps I should say “an out of office reminder”) and hone in on what matters. Data.
“Mehs”
1. My field crew. It’s constantly evolving. I’ve been told that I work like “a soldier,” “a man,” and “too hard.” I can’t keep the same ‘Dai’ (older brother) from the Range Post office, from one day to the next. These are the folks who should be most familiar with the forest, its terrain, and the leg muscles it takes to get them into and across them. Instead, I am roaring through forest watchers and lower forest office staff. When I was finally given a former army officer the other day, I thought, “at last!” Someone who really knows how to work. And although the dai worked easily throughout the day, and was the first here to scale a hill slope faster than my own legs could accommodate, the next day a different ‘dai’ appeared at the agreed upon meeting place, and shared that the previous day’s dai had twisted an ankle. “When?” I wanted to know. “When he was working with me?” Although answers were not forthcoming, I later ascertained that by “twisted an ankle,” what was really meant was “his legs hurt.” “And he was very tired afterwards!” the new dai added on, as if in his friend’s defense. To my mind, he might not have been so tired if he didn’t pause hourly to light a joint. Yes, a marijuana joint. But, hey, that’s just me…
2. Being in charge of the field crew. Now that’s different. Let me just say here – to my memory, I was an exceptional, motivated, hard-working, precise and accurate fieldworker. This probably isn’t possible or even totally true, but damn if I didn’t work my butt off in those jobs. I look back to my former boss Donie’s interview process (an hour long! It was epic) for a simple field assistantship, and appreciate her thinking much more deeply now. Man, that woman is smart. It is one thing to be a field crew member, and another thing altogether to be boss, friend, guide, field crew member, and project director. Every inattentive measurement taken is a personal, deeply felt slight, every whining complaint (too tired, to hot, too hard, too hungry) injurious to my heart and my ego. Worst of all are the quiet comments in Nepali, not so insidious as they sound, but worst because I can’t understand them and all parties involved know this. And worst because you don’t need to speak Nepali to understand tone.
3. Struggling with scheduling. Getting up at 5 or 6 am (as I did several time this week) is understandable if you’ll be at work at 6 or 7, but to wake that early and not get into the forest until 10 or 11 seems unthinkable. Trying to mitigate the meal schedule by feeding my field crew myself in the morning has been a black hole for our time and energy, although perhaps contributed to some amount of crew bonding (for the crew that returns, anyway). Lunch is incredibly inconvenient, but packed, non-warm/wet lunches are almost an insult in Nepal. Were I to be working alone I would take a snack-style lunch and work straight through the day, but instead we descended several hundred meters several days this week to eat a huge daal bhaat meal, which my field assistants consumed all the more zealously because the work made them hungry. But the food makes them exceptionally sluggish, and I’ve come to hate the first daal bhaat meal of the day. It interrupts our process, puts us back at the bottom of the hill (the worst!), and totally interferes with my own personal motivation. Everyone is grumpy about starting again, having cooled off long enough to no longer be literally dripping sweat, and perhaps a little unpleasantly full.
4. Unteachable moments. For the life of me, I cannot make my field crew love (or plain old appreciate) why we are doing what we are doing. I tried all week long, and have now come to an understanding with the futility of it all. When my field crew complains or drags their feet (the latter of which burns fantastic amounts of time – just stupendous amounts of time), I try to help them “see” the forest better, or explain the data analysis process more clearly, but so far I have had middling success. I point out the old bari (cultivated fields – what the Westerner envisions as a rice paddy complete with terracing) underneath the foliage, or how the vines are in fact crawling up intact woody stems which have sprouted new young leaves after being lopped by some errant harvester. I emphasize the differences in foliage on slopes with different aspects (the compass direction the plots face), dwell on riparian buffer zones (a fancy way of saying the land around streams and water bodies), and ask open-ended questions about tree form and quality, size, shape, and possible sources of disfiguration, galls, and multiple trunks in a given tree. I think I’m doing a good job, but for the life of me, I cannot get them jazzed the way I felt jazzed as a bushey-eyed young student, eager to learn and retain as much as I could. I don’t really ask that they love it (truth be told, even I do not love inventory) but I do ask that they understand and appreciate it, and that they prioritize the collection of good data. In fact, I might even be about to demand that last bit.
-M-
